Listening
The obligatory tango piece

The obligatory tango piece

Along Calle Florida, a pedestrianised shopping street in the centre of Buenos Aires, two cries fill the air with the predictability of birdsong. ‘Cambio, cambio,’ goes the call from lone men dotted along the road, black marketeers offering bafflingly high exchange rates to those with US dollars in hand. The other advertisements are more predictable...
Juan, Pablo, Jorge y Gringo

Juan, Pablo, Jorge y Gringo

Calle Dr Tristán Narvaja, Montevideo     Calle Cerrito, Montevideo     at the Montevideo International Book Fair     from Montevideo, Uruguay
In Porto Alegre

In Porto Alegre

The approach to Porto Alegre was not a journey we were anticipating with any great relish. The major roads, we were told, grow filthy with trucks as you near the city, while staying off the main arteries would force us through neighbourhoods we’d do well to avoid. A little research, though, revealed an alternative, a...
So good they named it twice

So good they named it twice

The room’s not much: just a thin storefront with strip lighting, a dozen seats around a couple of tables, photographs on the wall and fridges at the back. Show up too early – 8.30pm, say – and you might find it empty. If anyone’s here, they’re either deep in conversation at the table to the...