Monthly archive July, 2013
Christoph & Sonja

Christoph & Sonja

We wondered when we’d run into another touring cyclist on the road, and it turned out to be a little sooner than we’d expected. The glowing individuals either side of Ruth in this picture, which was taken on the main road close to Picinguaba in Brazil, are Sonja and Christoph, a charming couple who left...
Why?

Why?

from Paratí, Brazil
The road

The road

So many locals had warned us against leaving Rio by bike that it almost came as a disappointment to find the route we chose was absolutely fine. We’re used to riding in cities, which helped; as, too, did our decision to head out early on a Sunday morning, when the traffic is much reduced from...
So good they named it twice

So good they named it twice

The room’s not much: just a thin storefront with strip lighting, a dozen seats around a couple of tables, photographs on the wall and fridges at the back. Show up too early – 8.30pm, say – and you might find it empty. If anyone’s here, they’re either deep in conversation at the table to the...
Looking up

Looking up

Rio is an assault on the senses, but not necessarily for the reasons we were expecting. It’s not the crowds or the streetlife, which are of a piece with busier European cities; it’s not the noise, which goes on into the night – music, conversation, particularly dogs – but isn’t really oppressive; and it’s not...
Wheels

Wheels

One of the dozen or so jokes that Ronnie Scott used to tell in weary rotation between the acts at his jazz club involved a drummer checking in for a flight to New York. ‘Could you send my bass drum to Berlin, my snare drum to Paris, my cymbals to Delhi and my suitcase to...